Mobile Boy: James

Gay.com member James wrote to us asking for some travel advice. He said he and his partner were heading to Italy for the first time and wanted some tips on local hot spots.

Can you help this mobile boy out?

Here's what James is looking for, in his own words:

"Next spring we’re going to be flying into Rome, spending four days there before taking the train to Florence for a day and then on to Venice for 3 days.  We’re looking for nice but not too expensive places to stay in all three cities.  Since we don’t know where to go we’re open to any suggestions on neighborhoods." 

"We would love to find out-of-the-way neighborhood shops for everything, especially food and wine.   Also, we know we won’t be able to hit all the tourist attractions, and frankly don’t want to, so if you had to pick the top 5 what should we see?

And when we’re in Venice we want to go buy some glass, so where is the best place in Murano to go?

Any advice is also welcome.  We are trying to learn some Italian but since I still haven’t mastered English after all this time, I don’t stand a chance with Italian."

So -- if there are any Gay.com readers who've been to Italy and can help James and his partner with some suggestions in response to his questions above, post them to the comments section below so they can check them out.

[Editor's note: If you're heading someplace and want tips from locals like we're seeking for James, just send us an email (tips@gay.com) with "Mobile Boy" in the subject line. Tell us briefly where you're going and we may feature you on the homepage. Don't forget to include your Gay.com member name. ]

Comments

[Tim Dean]

Why are all the cute ones partnered?

James, I have never been to Italy, so I can't be of help this time. However, I live in Philadelphia, so if you ever travel here, I'd be more than happy to tell you some cool places to go.

Good luck in your travels. Love your hair btw -- you put Anderson Cooper to shame....

[Tracy Pike]

I'd suggest you look up the Travel Channel online & check out Samantha Brown's European travels. Her series of shows on Italy are great, showing not only some of the most popular attractions, but also the out-of-the way places to shop & eat that most tourists overlook. Try going to some of the little neighborhood bars where they serve their own version of "tappas" to munch on. There are Murano glass factories that you can take a tour of & pick up mementos or have them mailed back home. Visit some of the Dogen palaces in Venice. Take a drive thru the Tuscany countryside & eat lunch at a family farm. Check out any local monasteries that produce wine, cheese, bread or other products of Italy. Many of the old wineries, including those of Italian nobility, have tours & accommodations available. You can always hire a local student to guide you to the best sights in each city you visit.

[Dean]

You're gonna love Italy! Florence is great, and you'll find that one day is hardly enough time in this beautiful city. There's a small hotel that I recommend called Residenza S. Spirito www.residenzasspirito.com Roberta and Ferdinando are the innkeepers. They are wonderful and, like most Italians, be happy to dialogue with you on things to do while in town. Ask for the "Blue Room" Strolling around Florence you will find lots of cool shops and restaurants. Make sure to check out Roberta of Firenze (Borgo S. Jacopo 74r and 78r) They have one of the best tie and scarf selections around, and they will take good care of you. For clubbing I recommend Tabasco www.tabascogay.it/SuperTaba/
It's at the end of an alley, you might have to knock on the door, it's discrete. The place has a great underground feel. Usually a good DJ, nice dance floor and bar. There's a room where they show porn, and behind that a dark room, more like a labyrinth! Let me caution you, if you venture in there and happen drop your wallet, don't bend down to pick it up! lol. Have fun on your trip...

[Jeeves]

Too bad you don't have any real friends you can ask.

[TomBoston]

Um -- who is this man and with a face like that, why is he not on TV?

Even still, what you are looking for in Italy is refreshing. I admire that you and your partner are not looking for the standard "gay" experiences that Italy has to offer.

I truly wish you luck in your travels, James.

Tom.

[CaspianGDC]

The Ponte Milvio is a great place to go in Rome. The food is great and the atmosphere is romantic, although the menu is pretty pricey.

By the way, I live in San Francisco where James lives, and I've noticed him in the Castro quite often. As hot as he is, his partner is even hotter, if you can believe it.

[Mr. Frender]

Well, Murano glass can be found just about anywhere in northern Italy, but the place where I saw it most (and cheapest) was probably Venice. Just make sure to actually walk around Venice, and you're sure to pass a glass shop or two.

I'd say that if you're going to Italy, you'll probably want to see some "ancient" stuff, besides the Coliseum and all that obvious stuff. If you have the time, check out either Pompeii or Herculaneum. I've seen both, and although Pompeii is much larger and more shocking, Herculaneum is peaceful and pretty.

If you want out-of-the-way small neighborhoods and such, take a ferry to Ischia. It's a cute little island, not too much going on, but it's gorgeous.

The Amalfi Coast is quite famous for the local shopping and such, although it's usually not that cheap. If you drive there along the coast, you'll get a nice surprise every time a bus or truck is coming at you in the opposite direction along the cliffs, hehe.

Another nice small-town hub is Gaeta Bay, which also has really nice beaches. I personally liked walking around Formia the best, probably because I lived there though. Plus, you can take a trolley/bus around the area. I believe the local market was on Tuesdays... hmm.

I don't know much about the gay life and such, so you'd probably have to look that up on your own. If you want to see a beautiful palace and it's gardens, go to Caserta Palace in Caserta, which is about half an hour from Naples and it's crazy downtown life. Caserta Palace was actually where Star Wars Episode 1's "Naboo" scenes were filmed.

I've also been to a small town called Siena, it had an enormous and famous church, and it was quite nice. You'll probably get tired of walking though, since the town is built on a hill. If you drive to Alberobello or Putignano, you'll pass plenty of small unusual stone houses, which are pretty memorable. I'd say to only check it out if you happen to be going that way, it's kind of far from anything else.

Besides all of these places, the rest is easy stuff to find, such as info on big cities such as Rome, Florence, Venice, etc.

[Billy]

Venice is a great place. I stayed at a place called Octavious. The price is right and location is alright, it was next to the Rialto Bridge. I just got back from there.Now it was really hard to find any gay related areas within the Venice area, you'd actually have to go further inland to find any "family" out there. But my absolute suggestion for Italy, be it Venice, Rome, or Florence go to www.Booking.com. I lived in Europe for two years, and just got back a few months ago. It converts dollars to Euros, and it helps you to find really what you are looking for, whether its price, or location, or even both. Oh, theres no street signs...they're on the building corners, and they don't match any American bought maps. So go to one of those cheesy tourist booths and get their maps(trust me). Good luck and have fun. Italy is one of the most romantic areas i've been to, you'll fall in love with the country AND with your partner all over again!

[Duncan]

Was in Italy about a month ago. It was amazing. U will both have a great time. I stayed in a hostel in Rome it was comfortable but the shower were cold. Rome i recommend doing on foot everything is really easy to get to plus great for fitness. For me Colosseum, Vatican, Trivi Fountain and Spainish Steps. They are all must sees. But if you walk u'll see so much more. plus traffic is horrible so save a few euro and skip the bus. I did get a ROME pass. good value as it will get u into two sites free and have free access to the public transport for three days. metro is very handy as it takes u to alot of main tourist spots. i only did that when my feet got to sore for walking. if u use the rome pass it cuts down on waiting in line to. Not able to use it at the Vatican. For somewhere to eat go to 'life' address is Via della Vite, 28/30. Not far from the Spainish steps. had my final meal there before leaving Italy. For Florence only spent a day there. the hop on hop off bus tour is good as it takes all over. only problem i found was the commentary was a bit slow. didn't stay in Florence so no tips there. food wise i found were ever i went it wasn't an issue. din't make it to Venice so no advise for there. Hope this helps. have a great trip. i wish i was still in Italy.

[David Q in Toronto]

I spent a week in Rome, and the headline attractions are actually the best: 1) The Vatican (even if you're not religious, the artwork alone is magnificent; also, the view from the cupola atop St. Peter's is unmatched) 2) The Colisseum 3) The Fountain at Trevi. Some disappointments were the Spanish Steps and the Catacombs. I would also save the shopping and fine dining for Florence. For more info, I like the Rick Steves series of tourbooks, and I was able to get by with a pocket Berlitz Italian phrasebook. Have a great time!

[Tdyman02]

James, I found the best thing that I did when I went to Rome was get the travel guide "Time Out" Rome, it lists EVERYTHING, even has a section on gay Rome, places to stay, eat, the sites to see. I loved Rome, easy to get around, the bus and subway are great, and the old city, most of the things you want to see are all within walking distance of each other, for the most part, enjoy.

well… I read all the suggestions and have to say: people don’t read. From James question it is very clear to me what he and his partner want to do while in Rome, Florence, and Venice… They are not going to Pompeii, Herculaneum, or Naples, as Mr Frender suggested. Those places are way South of Rome James. If you guys are going to be one day in Florence, you won't have time to drive around Tuscany as Tracy Pike suggested.

Since James is traveling with his partner, I would imagine they want to have a romantic trip to Italy. Your choice of cities is good.

General advice for a seven day / 3 city trip to Italy: travel light (good pair of walking shoes), Take a converted to plug your notebook (they use 220 volts in Italy)…use trains, buy a Europass in the US ON LINE for trains, buy first class if you can, is not that expensive. In general, trains in Italy are crowded, at least in non-first class sections of the train, and some people actually get on the train without tickets, which makes the whole trip uncomfortable for others. Use taxis in Rome. If you buy crystal, bring it with you… don't ship it. If you must ship, pay with credit card, keep phone numbers, and be ready to cancel the order if you don't get what you bought… I'd rather go to Prague and surrounding towns for crystal…

Florence and Venice are pretty much walking cities. Make sure the hotel room has private shower and bathroom… make copies of all documents particularly phone numbers to credit cards, banks, etc. in case you loose credit cards and have to cancel them in a hurry. Take one of those traveling pockets that conceal money and documents… be aware of pick pockets. Don't worry about learning Italian… Europeans in general speak English… at least many in our "family" 

Gay live in Rome: Rome is not a night city during the week… sophisticated gay venues in Florence and Venice are virtually non-existent. Gay bars and pubs open and close in Rome all the time. If you read of one on the web, call by phone to make sure is still open. If you guys are looking for some "action" do it in Rome… you may not find that elusive 3-way in Florence or Venice (too much work)… Though I think James and his partner just want to have a romantic trip, devoid of stressful situations…LOL

You asked specifically about the "top five tourist attractions" here is my list:

1. Piazza Navona. Is the most beautiful of Rome's many squares. Is romantic to both gay and straight. Book a hotel close to Piazza Navona and make that the center of your stay in Rome. Great variety of restaurants and prices around the Piazza.

2. The Vatican. Pretty much a full day visit. If you cut the Vatican's visit short make room for the colosseum and the Pantheon… on your way back to Piazza Navona for a romantic dinner

3. Gay night life in Rome. One of two places: Testaccio and Trastevere areas or Campo di Fiori (international crowd with lots of hot looking guys). Warning: Lots of smokers in Italy….

4. Florence. One day?... Just walk around. The whole city is a museum. Many of the big designers have shops in Florence. Must see: start with Piazza del Duomo and the cathedral, and then go to Palazzo Vecchio and Ponte Vecchio. Make room for Academia delle Belle Arti where Michelangelo's David is exposed… it is breathtaking and you'd find yourself looking at David for hours … No time to visit the Uffizi Gallery. For souvenirs go to the open market (I prefer this one to Venice's). Don’t be afraid to haggle with vendors… gay bar: Tabasco… no big deal. Florence even has a bar with a dungeon (I don't remember the name and location)… hot, dark action there…no big deal either… I would prefer a romantic dinner in Florence… plus you guys need to catch the train to Venice…

5. Venice. 3 days… good! This past summer I found a very affordable hotel close to the airport, The Titian. There is a bus that will take you from the Titian to the City in 10 minutes. Book a hotel in the City if you can afford it. Start at Piazza San Marco. Off course visit Murano, and dine at any of the small and quaint restaurants around the city. Venice is a place for lover makers… wink…

Ciao bambini!!!!

[glacmark]

James, I've been to all three places you name, Rome twice and Florence and Venice once each. I am returning with students also this March. You will have a great time in each and this is a good itinerary. Staying in Florence is very expensive and if cost is a consideration you might want to stay in an outlaying area like Montecantini and drive into Florence. If you did that you could also see a little more of Tuscani such as Sienna, which is an absolute gem. But whatever you do, just get out and explore each place on your own and you will make wonderful discoveries that will be your own. Don't worry about going to first one place because it is a "must see", be your own Columbus and make those connections and discoveries on your own and you will be able to share with your friends unique and wonderful experiences. Have fun...who knows we might even cross paths...I will be the one with 27 people following. Arividercee

[John aka Heretocheck]

sorry guys... I'm the author of the following comment (with the list of five must see).

[McCunty]

Who would ask gay.com people they've never met to tell them what to do on a vacation? Don't make any moves on the Italian men though - you'll get bashed.

[Eric S.]

Hi James. You are doing the right thing asking for travel tips before going to Rome. Always fly direct to Rome to avoid changing at London, Heathrow. When you arrive at the Rome airport you will be in Ostia which is about 20 miles from the city of Rome. So you will need to take a train or a taxi to get to the city. There is a train that runs between the airport and the Rome train station (Stazione Termini). If you know where you’re going, take that train. Otherwise take a taxi. If anyone approaches you at the airport for a Taxi do not ride with them. Thank them and go outside and wait in line for a licensed taxi or you will get ripped off. As for places to stay, I recommend the Mecanate Palace which is in the front of St. Mary Major Basilica and close to the gay area of Rome. The next thing to know is that Rome, in fact, all of Italy is very closeted. Unless you know the streets well it will be hard to find gay places. A lot of times they're in the basements of buildings or on dark streets in the Termini and Colosseo neighborhodd of Rome. But don't worry, it's safer than in most U.S. cities though it may look like the wrong part of town. Sometimes you have to buzz the door to get in. Just say something like "Siamo Americani, potrrei aprire il porto, grazie? Also you will need something called a "tessera" to go into most gay bars, restaurants and bathhouses. The first time you show up you will have to fill out an identification form at the door and pay a fee of about or about $10 or $12 US. They’re plastic cards that look like an American Express card with a horse on and say "Club Uno" on them. You really do need this. It's not a scam and you will want to go back to the place where you applied for it to pick it up in a day or so, because they will ask to see your tessera or gay card everywhere in Italy. One place I know is called The Hangar Bar. From the Hotel Mecenate Palace, walk around the Basilica to Via Cavour, walk about a quarter mile down the street toward the Colosseum. Look for a set of steep steps on your left, walk up the steps, Keep going down via Quattro Cantoni you will pass an elementary school on your right. Then at the end of the street you’ll come out at another busy intersection. Cross through the intersection to the other side of the street and turn kitty corner on the street called Via in Selcis. The hangar bar is just down the street on the right. When you get into the bars they will ask for your tessera and hand you a ticket. Every time you order a drink, hand the ticket to the bartender and he’ll put an x next to the price of the drink. Then when you leave, you square up with the doorman. A few years ago there used to be a gay disco by the Trevi fountain called Superstar 2001. To get there look for the Dunkin Donuts sign and make a left up that alleyway. Keep going round the back until you find Viccolo dei modeli. It’s only busy on Saturdarys. Another place is called Cum which is off Via Pelligrino (I think) near the Campo Dei Fiore. Take the 64 bus to Chiesa Nuova and cross to the side of the street opposite from the church on the corso and walk down one of the side streets to via Pelligrino which runs parallel to the Corso Vittorio. Hope this helps. Have fun.

[Arvin]

Hey! I think it's great you are going to Italy with your partner. It is a very romantic place for both gay and straight couples. I am an American and I have been living in Italy for the past for years (Sicily) and have traveled up and down this beautiful country. So, first I suggest getting an apartment instead of a hotel Most rental apartments are dirt cheap in comparison to hotels and are so much more comfortable. Don't be fooled by getting into a hotel that says 5 stars but doesn't even rate that in the States. Americans have a different standard to hotels that Italians don't follow. SO to avoid all of that get an apartment. Sure you have to cook your own meals but most apartments are always located near markets and pastiscerrias (pastry shops). www.RentalinRome.it has some great apartments broken down into certain areas and their proximity to certain well known monuments. As for the night life everything pretty much starts off late so have dinner at around 9 or 10 near the Coloseo (Coliseum) and head down to the bar "Coming Out". You wont miss it its right in front of the Coloseo and has a big ol' rainbow flag in front. Many people go there and start chatting with the locals. Don't be afraid...try to speak a little Italian. More than likely they will begin speaking English to you. Just ask what the s=certain hot spots for the night are and go with it! :-) If you need anymore assistance please don't hesitate to contact me my gay.com name is anchors_and_alcohol :-)I hope you have a great time!

[Andy]

When in Venice, I recommend the following:

1. 3-day Hop-on Hop-off pass
2. Canal hop-on hop-off pass
3. Make sure you see Burano - the lacemaking island. It is very picturesqe. You can get there by vaporeto.
4. Check out Viator.com for reasonably-priced tours and activities.

[Matt]

Don't miss the Accademia restaurant while in Florence. It's gourmet dining that won't wreak havoc on your wallet. Right on the Piazza San Marco. Too bad you haven't more time to spend in Florence, it's a gorgeous city. I would second the advice that others have given, that you take some time to do a bit of touring around Tuscany, especially San Gimigniano.

[Keith]

We've been to Rome, Venice and Florence. Brush up on your Italian, although most speak english and are very friendly. In Rome, check out the Hotel Forum. It's across the street from The Forum and it has a roof top bar for early evening complimentary cocktails (for those who like that.) Make sure you walk everywhere so you don't miss out on anything. Gay clubs usually want you to have a membership, but otherwise charge a $10-$15 cover. Venezia is GORGEOUS. As someone else said, get to Burano. Try to eat at Trattoria al Gato Nero. Food is excellent, but prepare to wait a little because it's very popular. Murano, of course is a must as well. A lot of hotels have deals with local taxi-boats to take you there cheaply. We stay in a villa in the Tuscan countryside and drive into Florence. It's an incredibly gorgeous city. Make sure to hit the Ponte Vecchio too and buy some jewelery-just watch the exchange rate and prices. We found that most will bargain. Eat anywhere and you won't be disappointed. Overall I'd suggest hitting hotels.com. They cover Italy almost as well as they do the U.S..
Buon Viaggio! Maybe we'll run into you.

[russ]

Well ..a great neighborhood for Rome is Trastevere. The Hotel Santa Maria In Trastevere is a great spot to stay...a converted monastery with orange trees in the courtyard..a great section of Rome to wander with great nightlife and quaint restaurants.
As for Venice, without question, the Locanda Orseolo is rated the #1 B&B in Venice for a reason..personal touches ..yet you get all that without breaking the bank. It is close to Saint Marks Square but in its own secluded courtyard for quietness. It is on the canal Orseolo of course and you can watch the gondolas glide by your window and take in some scenery without it being noisey or obtrusive. Try the restaurant Marco Polo as well as the Aqua Pazza for great dining experiences. Enjoy your trip!

[Chris]

Hi James, I have been to Italy three times…My first suggestion is to spend more time in Florence and less time in Venice..There is no one particular spot in Murano to buy glass, just walk around there and see what you like..The enchanting thing about Murano is that each shop has something different and since it’s a once in a lifetime type of thing go with your heart on the glass you want not your wallet…The best tip I can give you about Italy is that the small towns of Italy are more impressive to me then the bigger ones…Siena just south of Florence is worth a day trip..Cinque Terre (5 towns) has the most beautiful beaches in Italy. So if you can find time to You can rent a small villa there for very cheap versus staying in hotel in Florence and in Rome, though it is off the beaten path...In the major cities, the squares are the place to go..That is the highlight of the cities..St. Marks in particular for Venice has a wonderful night life. As for the gay scene in Italy, it is tough..Last time I checked you have to purchase a membership to go into gay bars, so the gay scene is not happening as far as I can tell there...Staying in Rome, I would suggest you stay near the Termini section (near the main train and bus depot..It is not the most beautiful neighborhood in Rome, however you can get to any place in Rome via Bus and Trains and you will be close to the main train for your next destination. I stayed at the Star Hotel Metropole in Rome. It was clean and comfortable..In Florence I stayed at the Grand Hotel Medittereano, also very clean, nice and centrally located..As for Venice the place I stayed at was a four star hotel called the Hotel Bellini, I do not recommend that one..I had fleas in my room, it was a bad scene for me, not fond memories..Also if you have problems finding a good airfare try Eurofly out of New York JFK…They are a decent Discount airline to Italy. I know you are coming from SFO, but if you can not get a good fare from there to Italy it may be worth you flying to NYC first. Last May, I was going to Sicily I got a ticket for $850 round trip.

Chris from New York

[Paul]

My family is Italian, and I've been there many times on vacation. In Florence- you must take the walk up to the very old church called "San Miniato al Monte", on the way you will see Florence down below you and it's an incredible view. To get there, you have to walk over one of the three bridges over the Arno river- don't worry it's pretty straight forward! Also, you should visit the Basilica di Santa Croce church- amazing tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo are there and other famous italians. Florence is Magical!

[Tommy]

I am a Travel Agent that specializes in Italy. No need to speak Italian. English is widely spoken and Italians are a warm people that will be helpful. Enjoy!

[Roger (phoenix az)]

I was in Italy last year during November. In Venice, I loved the quaint Hotel American-Dinesen. Don't let the name fool you, it's not American in any way. It is located overlooking the San Vio canal, conveniently between the Accademia bridge and the Peggy Guggenheim museum. Walking about is very easy and convenient and it is near a bar/cafe that is gay. I loved Venice and would have stayed there even longer than 3 days.

[onre]

i can't give you Italy. how about a delivery pizza?

[sirambo]

Europe is very expensive to begin with, the euro is higher than the dollar. I have been to Italy several times and I suggest you borrow a bike in Roma and you can use it for the whole day and you can ride around the city and its nice especially when its early morning bike ride and you can see the colleseum. Also do not forget the sauna its nice and fun. In Venicia its great to ride the gondola but again it will cost you. You can take a ferry accross the island to Morano where the glass is made and its cheaper than in Venicia. You can also have them glass shipped to the USA. I did most of this by train and I did the backpack experience. If you travel by train in europe during the holidays when kids are out you might find the train overloaded. So to avoid this make sure you have reservation in the train and you will find the train different compaired to the amtrack. When I say overloaded be prepared to stand if you do not have a reservation which is extra cost. Good luck and watch out for the gipsy because they run like the maffia where they target the tourist and rob them blind. Most of all have fun and enjoy and watch your belonging even inside the train where it can be looted. Make a copy of your passport and all the content of your wallet. and hide extra cash somewhere where it can not be taken from you. Ciao!

[Buddy]

I've been twice, once ot meet a guy, we are now best frends. I suggest at least 2 nights in Florence to shop. If you go in March, almost everything is 1/2 PRICE. I stayed twice at La Cupola. It's a few blocks from the train station and a few blocks from the Duamo. Room 5(I think) has a great view of the Duamo and there's a terrace on top of the buliding ( GREAT VIEWS). It's less than 100/night and the inkeepers are great. The markets in the street are on certain days, try to find them, great stuff inexpensive. Buy some art on the street, and my bf and I had the artist add us in the watercolor..we gave her a tip but the art was less than 20 bucks.. and its such a keepsake. Depending on what you like, there's a bar called Crisco (we happened to go when it was underwear night) so unless you like to share and experiment.. it's not a place for christian ladies. :) Eat plenty of pizza and gelato, it's soooo good!
Venice is fun but not a place to really stay, you can stay a few minutes out of the city for 1/2 the price and take a bus to the city. Glass is everywhere in Venice, 100's of shops to chose from. It may be better to ship it back though. HAVE FUN!

[Marco Luxe]

For first timers in Florence I recommend the Medici chapel in San Lorenzo. The Michelangelo marbles are amazing, as is the lapidary work. It's not as crowded as the Academia[David] and right outside San Lorenzo is the main outdoor market street.

Venice is best to get lost and found on foot. You can't help it. Take the vaparetto [water bus] from the train station down the Grand Canal to San Marco. It's nearly the best value in Italy. Relax with a cafe in San Marco, the extra few euros spent there are worth the visual experience. I try to avoid the restaurants in San Marco tourist central. If you run across a traghetto you'll get a local experience of crossing the grand canal in a stand-up gondola.

My favorite thing in Rome to recover from its hectic pace was to pack a picnic lunch I bought in a alimentari [neighborhood grocery] then find a sunny spot high in the Colosseum to enjoy it [when you didn't have to pay to get in].
Buon viaggio.

[Tom K]

Amazing - we just returned from Italy Nov. 9, and specifically spent several days in each of the 3 cities you are planning to visit. Our trip was the opposite itinerary of what you plan, but that doesn't matter. We made hotel reservations ahead of time, just before visiting each city, using either Hotels.com or Orbitz.com. Both worked fine for our purposes, and we looked at their websites to compare pricing. We saved by booking thru the online companies. I'll list the hotels at the bottom. All 3 were supposed to have free wi-fi, however upon arrival in Venice we found out that was wrong info. By walking around the neighborhood I found free wi-fi that worked with my new G3 iPhone. In selecting a hotel be certain to read the comments by other posters; they gave us a lot of insight. Their comments about extremely hard beds in Italy turned out to be absolutely true!

We selected hotels that placed us within walking distance of the major attractions, and were priced between $130 & $150/night. All people are different, and we ran into some rude porters, and some very helpful & pleasant desk people. When checking in at all 3 hotels the clerks asked us if we wanted twin beds or double/queen beds. Having been together 25 years, it isn't critical that we are on the same mattress when traveling. Our answer always was, "It really doesn't make any difference to us; just give us whichever is the nicest room (at the price we booked)." All three included a continental style breakfast, and that helps immensely on the food budget.

We quickly found out that food is expensive in Italy, and it isn't like the spaghettie & lasagne you are used to in the USA. Just a Coke or cafe' latte' will cost you at least 3 Euros, and sometimes over 5 Euros. We ate moderately, sometimes even splitting a panini sandwich, and yet spent on average $100 US/day for lunch and dinner. That included usually 1 glass of house wine each!

Use the water busses in Venice, as well as your legs. In the other 2 cities, if you pick the right hotel, you can walk everywhere. The water busses (called something like "vaperettos" operate on the honor system, and you can buy tickets good for one trip, one day, two days, etc. Don't try to cheat. We were checked for tickets, and thank goodness we had validated tickets. The fines, we are told, can be steep.

Almost every restaurant in Italy has a menu posted out front that is easy to access. Remember, Euros are worth more than US dollars! Portions are reasonably small, not the humungous "hungry mountain man" portions that US restaurants serve. Don't ask for water unless you intend to be served a bottle of water, for which you will be charges. Also, in most places the bread is not free. Some places will simply place it on your table, then you'll find it on your tab when you check out. If in doubt, ask. Tipping is usually around 10%, and is often added into the bill as a "service charge". Most menues will state whether or not there is a service charge.

As for sightseeing, the architecture in the cities themselves are real museums. To us, things are really old at 200 years. Over there, it takes 2000 years (the birth of Christ) to be considered really old. In Rome we did join a walking tour group that meets up outside the Vatican, and our guided tour of the Vatican cost us 45 Euros apiece. That included all our entry fees, and we had a handsome, young Scottish lad, studying art, as our very knowledgable tour guide. That was worth every Euro.

If you have time in Florence (in Italy that city is spelled Firenze) to visit a major attraction consider the Uffizi Palace. Do a Google search on Uffizi Firenze and you'll find tons of info. It was orginally a palace, as well as an administrative building of sorts, and the ceilings are stunning, as well as the art collection. Many people rate it up there with the Prada in Madrid and the Louvre in Paris.

Our hotels:
Venice --- Locanda Poste Vechie. Reasonable price, very close to the largest produce & fish market as well as a water bus stop. Hard to find, as you go down one alley, and then another alley, both of which are so narrow that if you pass someone, one of you has to "give way". It was worth it for the convenience, good breakfast, service, and price.

Florence (Firenze)
We stayed in the Pitta Palace Hotel, and walked everywhere. In fact, we caught bronchitis there, and a few blocks away was a British doctor (50 Euro/patient, no waiting) and another 2 blocks to the hospital emergency (NO charge!). Antibiotics & other meds ran us about 150 Euros.

In Rome we stayed at the Antico Condotti, right in the heart of an older section by the river. Lots of wonderful, little restaurants, and upscale shopping (Vesace, etc.) mixed with tourist schlock. The cheapest place to buy bottled water, cokes, and a panini to go was a busy place right by the Trevi fountain. If the name is important, ask me.

If you want more info, let me know if there is a way to exchange email addresses. If you want to see some photos of some of these places, by all means I'd be happy to send you some.

Overall, there are two "must see" things in Italy, and both are sculptues by Michealangelo. The Pieta (mother & son) in St. Peter's Basicilica in the Vatican, and the statue "David" in the "Academy of Arts" in Florence.

Have fun, and take lots of money! One warning - our return flight was supposed to be on Alitalia, and was cancelled. If we didn't have a device to connect to the internet (or rent time at an internet cafer) we would've had a nasty surprise at the airport, as the reschedule flights, on Air France, left much earlier.

As a general traveling tip, you might consider the new clothing that you can rinse out in a sink and hang up to dry overnight, especially the underwear. It really cut down on the amount of luggage we took.

Tom K.

[Lance]

My cousin runs a bed and breakfast in Rome fairly near the Coliseum and right by a metro stop. My boyfriend and I stayed there while we were in Rome and the prices were really reasonable.

www.aliceinwonderlandbandb.com

[Leo]

Hi James,
I am an italian native and happy to talk to you more about italy. I am from Rome and also have family in Florence and Liguria. See below for some notes on my travels, there is a section on Venice and Murano glass. Enjoy!

Notes on Italy

Lombardia
Milan:
• Milan is large and relatively industrial. I find it to be one of the least beautiful cities in Italy. Still, if you’re there make sure to go to the Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. They share the same piazza complex and are a short walk to the Scala Opera House and the Castello Sforzesco which is an amazing midevil castle.
• The Naviglia section of milan is really cool actually. It’s a bunch of canals built by Leonardo Da Vinci and is now a pretty large antiques market once a week and the area is littered with artist studios. Your hotel should be able to tell you what day the antiques market is on.
Bergamo
• Bergamo is a quick day-trip outside of Milan which is an amazing medieval town. Go to Bergamo Alto (upper bergamo) and enjoy the views, some lovely cobble stoned alleys, and an amazing church and piazza.
Mantova and Cremona
• Mantova and Cremona are day trips outside of Milan. Mantova is a fabulous town to visit. It is very beautiful town, much more beautiful than Cremona. It has lots of parks and squares to just kind of stroll around and get lost for a day. It has a fair number of medieval palaces but in truth I go to Mantova just to walk around and enjoy the beautiful architecture and to slow down for a day. Cremona however has a fantastic Duomo to visit which has what is supposed to be the tallest medieval tower in Italy. If you like churches it’s worth seeing, otherwise there’s not much there.
Monza
• Monza is another day trip from Milan. It is cute, if a little commercial. The people that live in Monza tend to be very rich Milanese and the town reflects that. There is a Duomo there that has a crown in it that was supposed to belong to a Lambard Queen named Theolinda. The crown itself is supposed to be made with a nail from the cross that Jesus was crucified on. It sits behind a red drape and is not open for private viewings only. You have to pay a fee and then an old caretaker which has probably been there 30 years takes you back there and explains the history and myth around the crown. It was pretty cool.
Lake District
Lake Garda – The largest of Italy’s lakes
Gardaland
• Ok, I know it’s not for everyone but if you really want to do something visitors don’t usually do, go to Gardaland, Italy’s answer to Disneyland. It has a fair number of rides and some of them are actually pretty fun. I went with two of my friends, Willy Super-Fly and Wonder Lisa. It’s right on Lake Garda which is the largest and most eastern of Italy’s big lakes. Here is a link to Wikipedia for Gardaland: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gardaland
Lake Maggiore -- Stretches into Switzerland, very beautiful
Stresa
• Stresa is a town North of Milan in the lake district. it’s on Lago Maggiore. It’s a short train ride from Milan.
• There are so many things to see here. The lake has several large islands that you can visit. The most famous one is Isola Bella. It’s got an amazing villa, gardens, and cute town on it. Buy your ferry tickets from the tourist information office NOT from the local boat owners. You can get a day pass with the tourist office and take ferries to other towns along the lake and into Switzerland as well.
• To eat I recommend La Botte for dinner. The town of Stresa is very small and your hotel will be able to tell you where it is. It’s very good local fair.
Lake Como – The most popular if Italian Lakes
Bellaggio and Varenna
• Situated on Lake Como the two towns are spectacular. They have impressive views of the lake and narrow, cobble stoned alley way, many are just a series of large steps going up a hillside. In Bellaggio there is a villa there called Villa Melzi that we visited. It was ok, but I really liked the gardens. The garden runs along the lakes edge and is a great place to spend some time. Both Bellaggio and Varenna are completely overrun by tourists in the summer time so it’s best to visit them in May and Early June or in early September, after all the crowds have gone. Varenna is a ferry ride away from Bellaggio and it’s not nearly as beautiful but it’s still very cute and has far less tourists.
The Veneto

Venice
• When you go to Venice, if you go by train make sure you buy the ticket to Venezia, Santa Lucia, NOT to Venezia Mestre. Venezia Santa Lucia is the second Venice stop. The first stop is the city of Mestre which is modern day and very industrial.
• A very nice hotel to stay in is the Hotel La Forcola. It’s expensive but Venice is the place to splurge for a good hotel room. It’s located relatively centrally.
• The best way to get around is Venice is on a Vaporetto. They are essentially buses on water. You can buy day tickets or tickets for longer periods of time and you can take these boats to all the major stops in Venice.
• In the Piazza San Marco, I recommend taking the elevator to the top of the campanile for a fabulous view to the city.
• Other than all the big attractions in Venice, I also recommend the island of Murano, reachable by vaporetto. It’s where they blow all the glass. You can go check out a glass blowers workshop for free and browse all the wonderful glass shops. On Murano go look for a pastry called a Pescatore Ciccolato (chocolate fisherman). They are delicious! We went to Vetreria Murano Arte on Murano for glass, it’s the best place to buy authentic hand made glass, not the cheap fabricated glass you find in Venice. It’s expensive though so be ready to spend money. It’s located at 30141 Muranno, Calle S Cipriano Tel 041-736666. A couple of tips, go to the glass workshop and watch them make the glass by hand, then when you go to the little shop, it’s mostly filled with little trinkets and not very expensive. Tell the shop teller you are looking to buy a more serious piece and be prepared to be amazed! They will take you to the back which is this giant warehouse with many rooms of the most fantastic glass pieces ever! They ship to the US too.
• Venice is not the best place to find good italian food. However, We did eat at the Pizzeria La Perla which was fantastic. It has lots of good fresh pizza and fried veggies. It took us a while to find it and I can’t remember where it is. Your hotel will know. As will the Let’s Go! guide. There is also an Italian chain called Brek which is sort of like fresh choice. It’s decent though definitely just one step above fast food.

Verona
• Verona is an amazing town in the Veneto, on the way from Milan to Venice you will pass through it. There are so many sites to see here, including an enormous piazza with an extremely well preserved ancient roman amphitheatre. Apparently, it’s the largest one still standing outside of the coliseum in Rome. There are also the Giardini Giusti, which are pretty amazing gardens, and of course, the house of Juliette from Romeo and Juliette. The town itself is very easy to walk through, take the time to get lost and explore.
• Ristorante Greppia is a very good place to eat. The pasta is hand made and fresh. It’s located on Via Mazzini which is up the main drag and on the right as you are walking away from the amphitheatre, but I can’t remember anything more than that. There are signs to the restaurant and you can always ask around.

Emiglia Romagna
Bologna
• Bologna is known as La Grassa, the fat one, because there is so much wonderful food there. Definitely stop by one of the many pastry shops. Yum!!
• There are lots of beautiful loggias and churches. All in all it’s a pretty interesting city. It’s pretty liberal as far as Italian towns go and there is definitely a seedy feeling to it at times, but it’s beautiful. There are lots of wonderful Piazza’s and loggias in this town and it’s definitely fun to explore on foot.

Liguria

Noli
• The ligurian coast is covered in medieval towns. One of my favorites is Noli. There is a boat regatta that happens every September which is pretty cool. A bunch of hunky Italian men in traditional clothes running around drinking wine and having a good time Italian style. What’s not to like? The town itself is amazing. It’s a collection of medieval alley ways and store fronts and is protected by a fortified wall running up a castle which sits high above the town. We drove up to the castle for some spectacular views. I wouldn’t plan on spending an entire day in Noli but if you’re along the coast I would make it a rest stop for a few hours. Some other areas of interest on the Ligurian coast are Portofino, Cinque Terre, Arenzano, Pietra Ligure, and Genoa.

Tuscany

Florence
• We stayed at this fabulous hotel within a block of the Duomo. It is clean and many rooms offer a view. It’s run by a New Zealander and Italian. They can make reservations for you to all the local museums. The hotel is callet Hotel Il Perseo.
• Everything in Florence is within walking distance so bring your walking shoes.
• For lunch we ate at Trattoria Anita. They had pretty good typical Tuscan food.
• For dinner we ate at Palio Restaurant. Make a reservation for this place as it fills up quick. Its kind of fancy but man, is it yummy! I can’t remember where it’s located but your hotel can tell you where it is. The décor is fantastic.
• Another good place to eat is Trattoria Marione. Again, I can’t remember where this is.
• If you like gardens, the Boboli Gardens at the Palazzo Pitti are worth seeing.
• As far as the Duomo is concerned, I would definitely recommend climbing to the top of it and not actually going inside by the front door. The church is kind of lack luster on the inside, the only thing worth seeing are the frescos and you get a much better shot of them by climbing the Duomo than you do by going inside the church. You actually climb stairs in between the two walls of the giant dome and at one point jut out in the middle of it and are face to face with these frescos. At the very top you are rewarded by an amazing view of the city. It’s cheaper to climb the Duomo than it is to go inside the church and you get a better view. Though it’s more exercise.
Fiesole
• It’s a quick bus ride from Florence and sits above it on a hill. It is beautiful and has several Etruscan ruins to check out. It offers a wonderful view of Florence and the Tuscan country side. It’s a great day trip, though truth be told, it only takes 30 minutes to get there and you can see it all in a couple hours. It’s a great place to get away from the crowds in Florence though.
Siena
• Beautiful and medieval. It is where they run the famous Palio horse races. The duomo there is really quite nice and it has a number of really cute piazzas.
• The main piazza is shaped like a clam shell and it’s where they run the races.
• If you want to stay overnight, book your hotel room in advance, they fill up quick, especially during the Palio. Siena is a walking town, make sure you save plenty of time to walk around and enjoy the sites.

Lazio

Rome
• I recommend buying a ticket on the big double decker tourist buss called “Trambus Open”. You can buy tickets for it at the central train station. Their telephone number is 06 46952252. The bus runs a route from the train station and hits all the major stops within the ancient city, The Vatican, the Colloseum, Piazza Navona and the Pantheon and it is a fantastic way to see all the major sites and orient yourself with the city. You can hop on and off at your liesure at the various sites.
• When visiting the Colloseum, the Roman Forums are free, but I would also recommend buying a ticket to check out the Palatine hill. It’s where the roman emperors used to live and you get a view of the cirucus maximus from the viewpoint that an emperor would have. You can see wonderful mosaics and walk through an ancient roman palace.
• I also recommend getting lost in Trastevere. It is a cute neighborhood in medieval Rome and has Rome’s oldest still standing church in it. It’s got cute little alley ways and wonderful restaurants, though not cheap.
• When in Rome you MUST eat the pizza. It’s the best in ALL of Italy. I recommend trying pizza bianca which is white pizza with no tomato sauce. Stop at local pizza places for quick and easy lunches.
• Rome gets very hot and humid. Bring a hat and lots of water. You can fill up at the brown drinking fountains you see throughout the city. Romans call the fountains “Nasone” which means “big nose”. The water is the freshest in Rome and it’s free. The fountains are still sourced by the ancient aqueducts which still provide much of the cities water. Tourists generally don’t use them but Romans do. The water is fresh from the surrounding hills and best of all, it’s cold and free! Rome does get hot so take every opportunity to fill up on water and bring a hat. Also, you must explore Rome by night, it’s a much different city than it is in the day time and it’s generally very safe.

Grottaferrata
• The countryside around Rome is surrounded by a region known as the Roman Castles, Castelli Romani. It was named that because the countryside is scattered with old villas, palaces, and castles. The area is a popular day trip outside of Rome and is very easy to get too. One of those towns is Grotta Ferrata, and it happens to be where my uncle lives. There is this really cool fortified church that used to be a monastery. It’s in the Byzantine style which is very unusual for this area. It’s kind of cool actually. Every September they have a medieval festival which is pretty much just an excuse to dress up in funny cloths and party.
Frascati
• Frascati is another town in the Roman Castles and the coolest thing about it is its view of Rome. It sits up a hill and has a view of the entire city. It’s pretty cool. There is also a huge palace that belonged to some prince or other. Oh, and the other thing is it’s got an amazing style of pizza called pizza Bianca which is pizza without any tomato sauce. Sometimes they cut it in half horizontally and then stuff it with meet or veggies. It’s so good, you’ve got to try it!
Tivoli
• Tivoli is an amazing town just outside of Rome, it’s a quick and easy day trip. There are so many things to see here. It is where emperor Hadrian decided to build his vacation home. It is called Hadrian’s Villa but it is really more like a town. The complex is gigantic and it’s relatively well preserved. It’s enormous and when I went there, I spent the entire day just trouncing around the grounds. There were some archeological digs going on and I was also surprised to hear that some crazy wealthy Italian family has their private residence there. That part is closed off to the public but I thought it was an interesting fact. Getting there by public transportation is a bit of a pain. From Rome I took the metro to Termini Station, Rome’s biggest train station. From the train station I had to transfer to another metro line and then hop on a bus. It was an adventure just getting there so if you’re not adventurous or don’t speak Italian, I recommend taking one of the many tourist buses that takes you directly there. In hind site, I wish I had taken a tourist bus. Hadrian’s Villa itself is just outside the town of Tivoli. The other reason I wanted to go to Tivoli was to see the Villa D’Este. It was the house of some Italian cardinal who also happened to be a noble and it was built out of an old monastery. I hear it’s amazing but I never did get to it so I don’t really have much to say about it other than I hear it fabulous.

Umbria
Orvieto
• The thing I like about Orvieto is it has got so many layers of history even Italians consider it old! As a result it has a lot to offer. Most people make it a day trip from Rome and lots of people don’t go there at all. That’s a shame because it is well worth it. It pre-dates Rome by hundreds of years. It started off as an Etruscan settlement and is perched high up on a plateau. The only way to get up there is to take a gondola. Once at the top you get some pretty amazing views of the country side of Umbria. It was the last Etruscan stronghold to resist the Romans when Rome was just starting to get powerful. The Romans blockaded the city and the Etruscans lived by constructing this underground city where they housed pigeons for food, and had olive mills with which to make olive oil. You can still take a guided tour of the old Etruscan town. The entire town above the town a beautiful old town with a big gothic duomo in the middle of it. Also Orvieto is really well known for it’s pottery, kind of like Deruta is, and lots of people go there just to check out all the shops so it can be a bit commercial though not as bad as Deruta.

General tips
• Be sure to walk around at night in Italy. Much of life happens after dark and you can see some pretty amazing things. Italy after dark is much different than during the day when the tourists are out and about. Most families gather in the piazzas and socialize at night.
• Remember to validate your train ticket at the time you use it. Nobody will remind you of this but if you don’t and you get caught it’s a pretty big fine. You can validate your ticket at the yellow and orange boxes in the stations.
• Stay away from the gypsies. Seriously, stay away from them.
• Ask your hotel to make reservations for you at the museums. It’s much better than having to wait in line and the entry fee is the same.
• The travel guides I use are Lonely Planet, Let’s Go!, and Frommers. Most places mentioned above can be found in one of these guides.
• You can find train schedules and even book your tickets at the Trenitalia website: www.trenitalia.it, they have a link for the site in english. For longer trips it’s definitely worth it to go first class.

[William Schmidt]

James,the best glass place in Murano is "Ars Cenodese." They provided Marie Antoinette her glassware for Versaille, and have produced the artglass chandeliers for the new Sands Casino in Macau.

[Me]

Hang on to your wallet, passport and generally any valuable items when you step out of the plane!!!

Thievery runs rampant there. All 3 of my acquaintances got things taken from them while visiting there (Rome). My sister got her purse snatched right from her shoulder. Her passport was in there. Two (gay) coworkers got their pockets picked! Just $50 in total but man were they annoyed!!! They didn't mind being violated by hot Italian guys but not in this way!

[Mariella]

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